Dolce & Gabbana: Perbezaan antara semakan

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Pada tahun 2012, D & G digabungkan dengan Dolce & Gabbana untuk mengukuhkan garisan utama. Koleksi D & G lepas akhir adalah koleksi Musim Bunga / Panas 2012 yang ditunjukkan pada bulan September 2011.<ref>{{cite news |url= http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2011/03/03/dolce-and-gabbana-considers-merging-dandg-line |title=The End of D&G |work=[[Vogue UK]] |author=Ella Alexander |date=1 June 2011 |accessdate=19 May 2012}}</ref> ''[[The New Yorker]]'' diterbitkan pada tahun 2005 bahawa, "Dolce dan Gabbana menjadi dua belas tahun [[Prada]] kepada sembilan belas sembilan puluhan dan Armani adalah untuk sembilan belas tahun lapan puluhan—''gli stilisti'' yang sensitifnya menentukan dekad."<ref name=TNY /> Sebagai penghargaan peribadi, pada tahun 1996 dan tahun 1997 Dolce & Gabbana dinamakan oleh ''[[FHM]]'' sebagai pereka tahun ini. Pada tahun 2003 ''[[GQ Magazine]]'' bernama Dolce & Gabbana di kalangan mereka "Men of the Year" (Lelaki Tahun Ini). Pembaca tahun berikut ''[[Elle (majalah)|British Elle]]'' mengutip Dolce & Gabbana sebagai pereka antarabangsa terbaik pada 2004 Elle Style Awards.<ref name=AWD>{{cite web |url= http://www.dolcegabbana.com/corporate/en/history/international-awards.html |title=International Awards |accessdate=29 May 2012}}</ref> Dolce & Gabbana merayakan ulang tahun ke-20 jenama mereka pada 19 Jun 2010 di Piazza della la Scala dan [[Palazzo Marino]] di Milan. Sebuah pameran awam juga diadakan pada hari berikutnya yang termasuk sebuah bilik di mana beberapa belas televisyen ditumpuk secara tidak sengaja di antara satu sama lain, masing-masing menunjukkan koleksi yang berbeza dari sejarah dua puluh tahun reka bentuk rumah itu.<ref>{{cite web |title=Dolce&Gabbana 20th Anniversary. A day in history. A video. |author=Dolce & Gabbana |publisher=Youtube: Dolce & Gabbana Channel |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9k3c0DtbiZw |date=16 July 2010 |accessdate=31 May 2012}}</ref>
Pada tahun 2012, D & G digabungkan dengan Dolce & Gabbana untuk mengukuhkan garisan utama. Koleksi D & G lepas akhir adalah koleksi Musim Bunga / Panas 2012 yang ditunjukkan pada bulan September 2011.<ref>{{cite news |url= http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2011/03/03/dolce-and-gabbana-considers-merging-dandg-line |title=The End of D&G |work=[[Vogue UK]] |author=Ella Alexander |date=1 June 2011 |accessdate=19 May 2012}}</ref> ''[[The New Yorker]]'' diterbitkan pada tahun 2005 bahawa, "Dolce dan Gabbana menjadi dua belas tahun [[Prada]] kepada sembilan belas sembilan puluhan dan Armani adalah untuk sembilan belas tahun lapan puluhan—''gli stilisti'' yang sensitifnya menentukan dekad."<ref name=TNY /> Sebagai penghargaan peribadi, pada tahun 1996 dan tahun 1997 Dolce & Gabbana dinamakan oleh ''[[FHM]]'' sebagai pereka tahun ini. Pada tahun 2003 ''[[GQ Magazine]]'' bernama Dolce & Gabbana di kalangan mereka "Men of the Year" (Lelaki Tahun Ini). Pembaca tahun berikut ''[[Elle (majalah)|British Elle]]'' mengutip Dolce & Gabbana sebagai pereka antarabangsa terbaik pada 2004 Elle Style Awards.<ref name=AWD>{{cite web |url= http://www.dolcegabbana.com/corporate/en/history/international-awards.html |title=International Awards |accessdate=29 May 2012}}</ref> Dolce & Gabbana merayakan ulang tahun ke-20 jenama mereka pada 19 Jun 2010 di Piazza della la Scala dan [[Palazzo Marino]] di Milan. Sebuah pameran awam juga diadakan pada hari berikutnya yang termasuk sebuah bilik di mana beberapa belas televisyen ditumpuk secara tidak sengaja di antara satu sama lain, masing-masing menunjukkan koleksi yang berbeza dari sejarah dua puluh tahun reka bentuk rumah itu.<ref>{{cite web |title=Dolce&Gabbana 20th Anniversary. A day in history. A video. |author=Dolce & Gabbana |publisher=Youtube: Dolce & Gabbana Channel |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9k3c0DtbiZw |date=16 July 2010 |accessdate=31 May 2012}}</ref>


== Brands ==
== Jenama ==
[[File:D&G Golden Sneakers.jpg|thumb|A pair of Dolce & Gabbana's Golden Sneakers.]]
[[File:D&G Golden Sneakers.jpg|thumb|A pair of Dolce & Gabbana's Golden Sneakers.]]
Dolce & Gabbana had two central lines (D&G and Dolce&Gabbana) until 2012, when the lines merged under the label Dolce & Gabbana.
Dolce & Gabbana mempunyai dua garisan tengah (D & G dan Dolce & Gabbana) hingga 2012, apabila garisan itu bergabung di bawah label Dolce & Gabbana.


=== Dolce&Gabbana ===
=== Dolce & Gabbana ===
Dolce&Gabbana (spelled without spaces, unlike the name of the me) specialises in luxury items inspired by high-designs and is more formal and 'timeless', responding to long-term trends as well as seasonal changes.<ref name=AAB>{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Hemsvn9ZbRkC&pg=PA225&dq=Dolce%26Gabbana++rather+than+seasonal+changes&hl=en&sa=X&ei=JyF3T5nQIYTi0QGg1ISbDQ&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=Dolce%26Gabbana%20%20rather%20than%20seasonal%20changes&f=false |title=The Berg Companion to Fashion |author=Valerie Steele |publisher=Berg |page=225 |year=2010}}</ref> It also sells sunglasses and corrective eyewear, purses, and watches.
Dolce & Gabbana (dieja tanpa ruang, tidak seperti nama saya) mengkhususkan diri dalam barangan mewah yang diilhami oleh reka bentuk yang tinggi dan lebih formal dan 'abadi', menanggapi trend jangka panjang serta perubahan bermusim.<ref name=AAB>{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Hemsvn9ZbRkC&pg=PA225&dq=Dolce%26Gabbana++rather+than+seasonal+changes&hl=en&sa=X&ei=JyF3T5nQIYTi0QGg1ISbDQ&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=Dolce%26Gabbana%20%20rather%20than%20seasonal%20changes&f=false |title=The Berg Companion to Fashion |author=Valerie Steele |publisher=Berg |page=225 |year=2010}}</ref> Ia juga menjual cermin mata hitam dan eyewear pembetulan, dompet, dan jam tangan.
In April 2009 it launched its make-up range, unveiled at [[Selfridges]], London by [[Scarlett Johansson]].<ref>{{cite web|title=Scarlett Johansson launches D&G Make-up at Selfridges|url=http://www.sofeminine.co.uk/fashion-designers/scarlett-johansson-launches-d-g-make-up-at-selfridges-n34289.html|publisher=Sofeminine.co.uk}}</ref>
Pada bulan April 2009, ia melancarkan pelbagai bentuknya, yang dilancarkan di [[Selfridges]], London oleh [[Scarlett Johansson]].<ref>{{cite web|title=Scarlett Johansson launches D&G Make-up at Selfridges|url=http://www.sofeminine.co.uk/fashion-designers/scarlett-johansson-launches-d-g-make-up-at-selfridges-n34289.html|publisher=Sofeminine.co.uk}}</ref>
In February 2010, it was announced that American singer [[Madonna (entertainer)|Madonna]] would design a collection of sunglasses titled ''MDG'', set to be released in May of that year.
Pada bulan Februari 2010, ia diumumkan bahawa penyanyi Amerika [[Madonna (penghibur)|Madonna]] akan merekabentuk koleksi cermin mata hitam berjudul '' MDG '', yang akan dikeluarkan pada bulan Mei tahun itu.
It also offers fragrances for men and women. An example is 'The One' which is a perfume by Dolce&Gabbana.
Ia juga menawarkan wangian untuk lelaki dan wanita. Contohnya ialah 'The One' yang merupakan minyak wangi oleh Dolce & Gabbana.


=== D & G ===
=== D & G ===
D & G was the younger, more flamboyant [[diffusion line]] of the brand. Unlike Dolce&Gabbana, D&G sold [[watches]] as well as clothing: watches were manufactured by Naloni and [[Binda Group]]. In 2011, Dolce & Gabbana decided to discontinue the D & G-line in order to put "more strength and energy" into their other collections.<ref name="nymag">{{cite journal| url=http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2012/06/dolce-gabbana-to-launch-couture-on-july-9.html|title=Dolce & Gabbana to launch Couture | journal=NYMag |accessdate=29 June 2012}}</ref>
D & G adalah jenama [[garis penyebaran]] yang lebih muda dan lebih flamboyan. Tidak seperti Dolce & Gabbana, D & G menjual jam tangan dan pakaian: jam tangan dihasilkan oleh Naloni dan Kumpulan Binda. Pada tahun 2011, Dolce & Gabbana memutuskan untuk menghentikan D & G-line untuk meletakkan "lebih banyak kekuatan dan tenaga" ke koleksi mereka yang lain.<ref name="nymag">{{cite journal| url=http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2012/06/dolce-gabbana-to-launch-couture-on-july-9.html|title=Dolce & Gabbana to launch Couture | journal=NYMag |accessdate=29 June 2012}}</ref>


=== Other lines ===
=== Talian lain ===
Dolce & Gabbana created a [[Wedding dress|bridal]] collection, but only between 1992 and 1998. The Dolce & Gabbana Home Collection—started in 1994—was also discontinued in 1999, with the exception of unique pieces being created for D&G premises. The first women's beachwear collection was developed in 1989, followed by the first men's beachwear collection in 1992. D&G launched an eyewear line in 1998 and a timepieces line in 2000. That same year D&G launched both a men's and women's underwear collection, separate from their Dolce & Gabbana lingerie collection. In 2001 they launched the D&G Junior line for children. In 2006 the duo launched the Anamalier line of leopard print accessories for women, and in 2007 they launched a line of [[crocodile]] travel cases for men. Other bags produced by the house include the Miss Sicily tote bag,<ref>{{cite news |url= http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/editors-eye-february/ |title=Editors' Eye: The Ten Things We Loved (or Longed For) This February |date=28 February 2012 |accessdate=19 May 2012 |author=Tabitha Simmons |work=[[Vogue UK]]}}</ref> and the "Dolce" bag, offered in straw and leather.<ref>{{cite web |url= http://www.glamour.com/fashion/blogs/slaves-to-fashion/2012/01/it-bag-alert-dolce-gabbanas-do.html |title=Celebrity Obsession Alert: Dolce & Gabbana's "Dolce" Bag Is Everything For Spring |date=27 January 2012 |work=[[Glamour (magazine)|Glamour]] |author=Tracy Lomrantz}}</ref>
Dolce & Gabbana mencipta koleksi [[Gaun pengantin|pengantin]], tetapi hanya antara tahun 1992 dan 1998. Koleksi Rumah Dolce & Gabbana yang dimulakan pada tahun 1994-juga dihentikan pada tahun 1999, kecuali potongan unik dicipta untuk premis D & G. Koleksi pakaian renang wanita pertama telah dibangunkan pada tahun 1989, diikuti oleh koleksi pakaian renang lelaki pertama pada tahun 1992. D & G melancarkan garis kacamata pada tahun 1998 dan garis timepieces pada tahun 2000. Pada tahun yang sama, D & G melancarkan koleksi seluar lelaki dan wanita, berasingan dari mereka Koleksi pakaian Dolce & Gabbana. Pada tahun 2001 mereka melancarkan talian D & G Junior untuk kanak-kanak. Pada tahun 2006, kedua-duanya melancarkan talian aksesori cetak harimau Anamalier untuk wanita, dan pada tahun 2007 mereka melancarkan garis perjalanan buaya untuk lelaki. Beg lain yang dihasilkan oleh rumah termasuk beg tote Miss Sicily,<ref>{{cite news |url= http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/editors-eye-february/ |title=Editors' Eye: The Ten Things We Loved (or Longed For) This February |date=28 February 2012 |accessdate=19 May 2012 |author=Tabitha Simmons |work=[[Vogue UK]]}}</ref> and the "Dolce" bag, offered in straw and leather.<ref>{{cite web |url= http://www.glamour.com/fashion/blogs/slaves-to-fashion/2012/01/it-bag-alert-dolce-gabbanas-do.html |title=Celebrity Obsession Alert: Dolce & Gabbana's "Dolce" Bag Is Everything For Spring |date=27 January 2012 |work=[[Glamour (magazine)|Glamour]] |author=Tracy Lomrantz}}</ref>


In 2009 they launched their first line of color cosmetics,<ref name=DGGH /> with [[Scarlett Johansson]] as the face of the advertising campaign.<ref name=Scarl /> Dolce & Gabbana launched its first line of fine jewellery in late 2011 with an 80-piece line including bejewelled rosaries, charm bracelets, and necklaces.<ref>{{cite news |url= http://www.vogue.co.uk/jewellery/news/2011/11/9/dolce-and-gabbana-launch-fine-jewellery |work=[[Vogue UK]] |author=Lisa Niven |date=9 November 2011 |title=Dolce's Jewels |accessdate=19 May 2012}}</ref> They later launched a fine jewellery collection for men.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://sfluxe.net/fit-for-a-king-dolce-gabbanas-fine-jewelry/|title=» Fit For a King: Dolce & Gabbana’s Fine Jewellery Collection|last=Matthews|first=Damion|date=2015-11-12|website=SFLUXE|language=en-US|access-date=2016-06-26}}</ref> Dolce & Gabbana have received several awards for their fragrances, as was described in the above sections. Their current fragrances include: "The One", "Sport", "[[Light Blue (fragrance)|Light Blue]]", "Dolce", "Classic", "Sicily", "The One Rose", and the original scents "Pour Homme" and "Parfum".<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.dolcegabbana.com/dg/perfumes/ |title=Perfumes |accessdate=31 May 2012}}</ref> On 16 October 2014, the company announced that [[Colin Farrell]] would be the face of their new fragrance called "Intenso."<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/10/16/colin-farrell-face-of-dolce-and-gabbana-campaign|title=Colin Farrell, Face Of Dolce & Gabbana Campaign (Vogue.co.uk)|work=Vogue UK}}</ref>
Pada tahun 2009 mereka melancarkan garis kosmetik warna pertama mereka,<ref name=DGGH /> with [[Scarlett Johansson]] as the face of the advertising campaign.<ref name=Scarl /> Dolce & Gabbana launched its first line of fine jewellery in late 2011 with an 80-piece line including bejewelled rosaries, charm bracelets, and necklaces.<ref>{{cite news |url= http://www.vogue.co.uk/jewellery/news/2011/11/9/dolce-and-gabbana-launch-fine-jewellery |work=[[Vogue UK]] |author=Lisa Niven |date=9 November 2011 |title=Dolce's Jewels |accessdate=19 May 2012}}</ref> Mereka kemudian melancarkan koleksi barang kemas untuk lelaki.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://sfluxe.net/fit-for-a-king-dolce-gabbanas-fine-jewelry/|title=» Fit For a King: Dolce & Gabbana’s Fine Jewellery Collection|last=Matthews|first=Damion|date=2015-11-12|website=SFLUXE|language=en-US|access-date=2016-06-26}}</ref> Dolce & Gabbana telah menerima beberapa anugerah untuk wangian mereka, seperti yang diterangkan dalam bahagian di atas. Wewangian mereka sekarang termasuk: "The One", "Sport", "[[Light Blue (wangian)|Light Blue]]", "Dolce", "Classic", "Sicily", "The One Rose", dan aroma asli "Pour Homme" dan "Parfum".<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.dolcegabbana.com/dg/perfumes/ |title=Perfumes |accessdate=31 May 2012}}</ref> Pada 16 Oktober 2014, syarikat itu mengumumkan bahawa [[Colin Farrell]] akan menjadi wajah aroma baru mereka yang dikenali sebagai "Intenso."<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2014/10/16/colin-farrell-face-of-dolce-and-gabbana-campaign|title=Colin Farrell, Face Of Dolce & Gabbana Campaign (Vogue.co.uk)|work=Vogue UK}}</ref>


=== Internet ===
=== Internet ===
Dolce & Gabbana made the "DG" logo an iconic and instantly recognizable symbol,<ref>{{cite web | url = http://www.famouslogos.net/dolce-gabbana-logo/ | title = Dolce & Gabbana Logo&nbsp;– Design and History | work = FamousLogos.net | accessdate =7 May 2011}}</ref> but they were never able to get the matching internet address DG.com.
Dolce & Gabbana membuat logo "DG" simbol ikonik dan dikenali dengan serta-merta,<ref>{{cite web | url = http://www.famouslogos.net/dolce-gabbana-logo/ | title = Dolce & Gabbana Logo&nbsp;– Design and History | work = FamousLogos.net | accessdate =7 May 2011}}</ref> tetapi mereka tidak pernah mendapat alamat internet yang sepadan dengan DG.com.
In fact, DG.com is one of the oldest Internet domains and was already registered in 1986 by the computer company [[Data General]], now defunct. After that company closed in 1999, the url went to [[EMC Corporation|EMC]] before [[Dollar General]] purchased it in 2010 after a bidding war with Dolce & Gabbana.<ref>{{cite web|title=Wayback Machine: 2/3/11 |url=http://www.dollargeneral.com/ |accessdate=19 June 2013 |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20090107040228/http://www.dollargeneral.com// |archivedate=7 January 2009 }}</ref>
Malah, DG.com adalah salah satu domain Internet tertua dan sudah didaftarkan pada tahun 1986 oleh syarikat komputer [[Data General]], kini tidak berfungsi lagi. Selepas syarikat itu ditutup pada tahun 1999, urus niaga itu pergi ke [[EMC Corporation | EMC]] sebelum [[Dollar General]] membelinya pada tahun 2010 selepas perang bidaan dengan Dolce & Gabbana.<ref>{{cite web|title=Wayback Machine: 2/3/11 |url=http://www.dollargeneral.com/ |accessdate=19 June 2013 |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20090107040228/http://www.dollargeneral.com// |archivedate=7 January 2009 }}</ref>


== Partnerships ==
== Partnerships ==

Semakan pada 17:15, 26 Mac 2018

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Dolce & Gabbana S.R.L.
Jenis/bentuk sahSocietà a responsabilità limitata
IndustriRuncit
Ditubuhkan1985; 39 tahun yang lalu (1985)
Milan
PengasasDomenico Dolce dan Stefano Gabbana
Ibu pejabatMilan, Itali
Kawasan perkhidmatanWorldwide
Tokoh penting
  • Alfonso Dolce, CEO
  • Cristiana Ruella, COO
KeluaranPakaian, kasut, beg tangan, cermin mata hitam, jam tangan, barang kemas, minyak wangi dan kosmetik.
Bilangan kakitangan3,150
Syarikat indukDolce & Gabbana Luxembourg S.à.r.l.
Tapak webdolcegabbana.it
Facebook: DolceGabbana Twitter: dolcegabbana Instagram: dolcegabbana LinkedIn: dolce-&-gabbana Youtube: UCnsNsFAFPvFwpbaHJf2JtCQ Pinterest: dolcegabbana TikTok: dolcegabbana Sunting ini di Wikidata
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Dolce & Gabbana (sebutan bahasa Itali: [ˈdoltʃe e ɡɡabˈbaːna]) adalah sebuah rumah fesyen mewah Itali[1] diasaskan pada tahun 1985 di Legnano oleh pereka Itali Domenico Dolce dan Stefano Gabbana.[2]

Kedua-duanya bertemu di Milan pada tahun 1980 dan direka bentuk untuk rumah fesyen yang sama. Pada tahun 1982, mereka menubuhkan sebuah studio perunding pereka; pada masa ia berkembang menjadi "Dolce & Gabbana". Mereka mempersembahkan koleksi wanita pertama mereka pada tahun 1985[3] di Milan, di mana setahun kemudian kedai mereka akan membuka pintu.

Pada tahun 1988, mereka melancarkan garis leotard, dan pada tahun 1989 mereka mula merancang pakaian dalam dan pakaian renang. Dolce & Gabbana mula mengeksport produk mereka ke Jepun dan negara-negara lain termasuk Amerika Syarikat, di mana mereka menubuhkan bilik pameran mereka sendiri pada tahun 1990. Pada tahun 1992, pada tahun yang sama mereka menyampaikan koleksi lelaki mereka, mereka juga melancarkan minyak wangi pertama mereka Dolce & Gabbana. Mereka memenangi anugerah Woolmark pada tahun 1991, dan Perfume's Academy "Rasa Paling Feminin Tahun" pada tahun 1993 untuk wangi mereka Dolce & Gabbana Parfum. Pada penghujung tahun 1990-an, pendapatan syarikat sekitar AS$500 juta dan pada tahun 2003 pendapatan mereka mencapai $633 juta. Menjelang tahun 2005, perolehan mereka 600 juta.[4]

Rumah reka bentuk

Koleksi awal

Koleksi pertama dari kedua-dua reka bentuk telah ditunjukkan pada bulan Oktober 1985[3][5] bersama-sama lima label Itali lain-lain yang muncul sebagai sebahagian daripada Minggu Fesyen Milan. Kedua-duanya tidak mempunyai cukup wang untuk menyewa model atau menyediakan aksesori untuk mereka, jadi mereka mencari bantuan daripada rakan-rakan mereka. Peragawati (kawan mereka) hanya memakai barang peribadi mereka untuk melengkapi pakaian. Mereka menggunakan lembaran tempat tidur yang dibawa Dolce dari rumah sebagai tirai panggung mereka.[6]

Pasangan itu melabel koleksi pertama mereka Wanita Sejati, kerana sebahagiannya menggunakan wanita tempatan sebagai model di landasan.[5] Jualan dari koleksi pertama mereka cukup mengecewakan untuk Gabbana untuk membatalkan pesanan kain mereka akan membuat koleksi kedua mereka. Walau bagaimanapun, keluarga Dolce menawarkan untuk menolong kos mereka apabila kedua-dua mereka melawatnya di Sicily selama Krismas, sementara secara kebetulan, syarikat kain itu tidak menerima notis pembatalan pada masa sehingga kain sudah siap untuk mereka kembali di Milan ketika mereka kembali.[7] They produced the next collection in 1986 and opened their first store that same year.[5] Michael Gross menulis koleksi ketiga mereka dalam wawancara pada tahun 1992, "Mereka adalah rahsia yang hanya diketahui oleh segelintir editor fesyen Itali. Beberapa model mereka berubah di belakang layar reyot. kain T-shirt-kapas dan elastik-sutera, Transformasi. " Pakaian dalam koleksi ini datang dengan petunjuk mengenai tujuh cara yang berbeza yang boleh dipakai dalam pakaian, kerana pemakai boleh menggunakan Velcro dan merangkul untuk mengubah bentuk pakaian.[8]

Koleksi keempat mereka adalah yang pertama untuk memberi impak besar kepada pasaran fesyen Itali. Dalam koleksi ini, Dolce menarik akarnya dari Sicily. Kempen pengiklanan koleksi ditembak oleh jurugambar Ferdinando Scianna di Sicily, dan menampilkan model Belanda Marpessa Hennink dalam gambar hitam dan putih[9][10] diilhamkan oleh pawagam Itali tahun 1940-an. Mereka meneruskan penggunaan pawagam Itali sebagai inspirasi dalam koleksi kelima mereka, melukiskan karya pembuat filem Luchino Visconti dan filemnya The Leopard.[5]

Salah satu daripada koleksi yang keempat mereka diberi label "The Sicilian Dress" oleh akhbar fesyen, dan dinamakan oleh pengarang Hal Rubenstein sebagai salah satu daripada 100 pakaian paling penting yang pernah direka. Ia dianggap sebagai bahagian paling penting dalam era ini untuk jenama. Rubenstein menyifatkan bahagian itu pada tahun 2012 dengan menulis, "Pakaian Sicily adalah inti dari Dolce & Gabbana, batu permata sartorial jenama. Pakaian berpakaian dari slip-tetapi ia adalah satu slip yang dihiasi Anna Magnani, dan ia siluet yang telah menghiasi Anita Ekberg, Sophia Loren, [dan sebagainya]. Tali itu menyerupai badan dengan ketat seperti tali pinggang bra, garis leher berjalan lurus tetapi mendapat sekurang-kurangnya dua kali, sekali di setiap sisi untuk membelai setiap payudara dan di tengah-tengah untuk menemui tuck uplifting yang memberikan dorongan lembut. Slip tidak hanya meluncur ke bawah, tetapi masuk ke pinggang untuk memegang angka tegas tetapi tidak terlalu ketat dan kemudian melebar untuk menekankan pinggul, hanya untuk jatuh dengan tirus sedikit di lutut untuk menjamin bahawa pinggul akan bergoyang ketika pemakai berjalan."[11]

1980-an dan 1990-an

Pada tahun 1987, kedua-dua mereka melancarkan pakaian rajutan yang berasingan dan pada tahun 1989, mereka mula merancang pakaian dalam pakaian dan pakaian pakaian renang. Dua tahun kemudian, mereka melancarkan garis leotard mereka. Pada tahun 1989, Dolce & Gabbana membuka kedai pertama mereka di Jepun dengan kerjasama Kashiyama Co. Mereka mula mengeksport produk mereka ke Amerika Syarikat, di mana mereka mendirikan ruang pameran mereka sendiri pada tahun 1990. Pada tahun 1992, pada tahun yang sama mereka menyampaikan koleksi lelaki mereka , mereka juga melancarkan minyak wangi pertama mereka Dolce & Gabbana. Mereka memenangi "Oscar des Parfums" untuk minyak wangi lelaki terbaik pada tahun 1996 dari Akademi Parfum Perancis, yang kali pertama kali gelaran itu telah diberikan kepada jenama Itali. Menjelang akhir tahun 1990-an jualan mereka sekitar $ 500 juta dan pada tahun 2003 sahaja, pendapatan mereka mencapai $ 633.2 juta. Pada tahun 1990, mereka melancarkan koleksi lelaki pertama mereka.[12] Tahun itu, mereka juga memindahkan rumah reka bentuknya ke pejabat pejabat pertamanya dan mula merancang pakaian dan potongan lain yang lebih mahal sebagai tambahan kepada pakaian aslinya.[8] Koleksi wanita Spring / Summer 1990 mereka merujuk lukisan mitos Raphael, dan kedua-duanya mula membina reputasi untuk pakaian berlapis kristal. Koleksi wanita musim gugur / musim sejuk 1991 juga dihiasi oleh pernak-pernik, termasuk pingat filigree dan korset embellished. Koleksi Wanita 1992 / Musim Sejuk 1992 kemudiannya diilhamkan oleh skrin perak tahun 1950-an, walaupun koleksi itu masih termasuk saman kristal yang dihiasi dengan kristal.[13]

Pada tahun 1991, koleksi lelaki mereka dianugerahkan Anugerah Woolmark untuk koleksi lelaki yang paling inovatif tahun ini.[14] Apa yang dianggap sebagai perjumpaan pertama mereka ke dalam pengiktirafan antarabangsa datang apabila Madonna (penghibur) ] memakai korset yang diperbuat daripada batu permata dan jaket yang disertakan dari Dolce & Gabbana di premiere 1991 New York City Truth or Dare: In Bed with Madonna. Kedua-duanya kemudian bermitra dengan Madonna pada tahun 1993 untuk merekabentuk 1500 kostum untuk tur antarabangsa Girlie Show untuk menyokong album 1992-nya Erotica.[12] Dalam temu bual mengenai pakaian, Madonna menyatakan bahawa, "Pakaian mereka seksi dengan rasa humor-seperti saya."[8] Pada tahun 1994, jaket cap derma dua-breasted rumah itu dinamakan "La Turlington" selepas model Christy Turlington. Pada tahun yang sama syarikat itu melancarkan talian utama kedua-D & G, garis yang bertujuan untuk individu yang lebih muda. Pada tahun 1996, pameran landasan D & G hanya disiarkan di Internet dan bukan landasan, dalam gerakan eksperimen ke arah media baru. Pada tahun itu Dolce & Gabbana juga merancang pakaian untuk filem Romeo + Juliet.[15]

Dalam industri perfileman, kedua-dua Dolce & Gabbana muncul dalam filem The Star Maker (1995 film) | The Star Maker] '(L'Uomo delle Stelle)' 'oleh pengarah Giuseppe Tornatore peranan kecil sebagai tambahan. Mereka muncul dalam peranan yang lebih penting dalam penyesuaian filem Rob Marshall Nine.[16] Sebagai penggemar, mereka juga bekerja di video muzik Girl Panic! oleh Duran Duran.[17]

Dari segi pengembangan pasaran, pada tahun 1989 Dolce & Gabbana menandatangani perjanjian dengan kumpulan Kashiyama untuk membuka butik pertamanya di Jepun. Mereka mengeluarkan wangian pertama mereka untuk wanita pada tahun 1992, yang dipanggil "Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme", yang dianugerahi anugerah Akademi Perfume 1993 untuk haruman feminin terbaik tahun ini. Haruman lelaki pertama mereka, "Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme", adalah penerima anugerah maskulin terbaik penghargaan tahun dari Akademi yang sama pada tahun 1995.[14] That year Dolce & Gabbana's collections caused a controversy with the British and Italian press, when they selected the American gangster motif as inspiration for their work.[18] Dolce & Gabbana mengubah inspirasi Musim Gugur / Musim Sejuk 1995 ini ke pakaian wanita, yang mana pengkritik menyatakan membawa kelebihan erotik kepada pakaian. Kedua-dua mereka telah menggunakan motif ini sebelum pada tahun 1992 apabila jurugambar Steven Meisel menembak sebuah kempen iklan untuk rumah di mana model-model itu muncul dalam "gangster chic". Ini termasuk mantel gaya 1930-an dan topi kulit hitam yang luas.[19]

Pengarang Nirupama Pundir menyatakan, "Dolce & Gabbana, dengan gaya superfeminin dan fantastik mereka, memisahkan diri dari fesyen yang serius dan sihat yang dikuasai selama sedekad."[20]

2000an

Dolce & Gabbana terus bekerjasama dengan Madonna, mereka bentuk kostum untuk Dunia Terbenamnya Turun pada tahun 2001, untuk menyokong album albumnya Muzik (Madonna album).[15] Mereka juga direka pakaian untuk lawatan antarabangsa Missy Elliott, Beyoncé, dan Mary J. Blige.[15][21] Pada tahun 1999, kedua-duanya muncul pada The Oprah Winfrey Show untuk menyokong penyanyi Whitney Houston, yang menggunakan pertunjukan untuk debut pakaian Dolce & Gabbana yang direka bagi lawatan My Love Is Your Love, yang dianggap oleh fesyen dan pengkritik muzik menjadi risqué luar biasa.[22] Kedua-duanya terus merancang pakaian untuk artis-artis muzik sepanjang tahun 2000an, termasuk kostum untuk lawatan Kembara Showgirl Kylie Minogue.[15] Madonna also participated in Dolce & Gabbana's 2010 advertising campaigns.[11]

Pada tahun 2000an, Dolce & Gabbana mengambil banyak inspirasi dari sukan bola sepak juga. Pada tahun 2003 barisan lelaki itu mendapat inspirasi utama dari bintang bola sepak dunia yang hebat.[12] Bentuk seni yang lain mula mengambil inspirasi dari Dolce & Gabbana juga. Pada tahun 2003 artis muzik tarian Frankie Knuckles mengatakan bahawa rumah fesyen adalah "barometer yang hebat" untuk trend dalam kedua-dua fesyen dan muzik.[23] Bagi impak mereka terhadap dunia reka bentuk, pada tahun 2002, korset yang merupakan bahagian utama reka bentuk awal Dolce & Gabbana telah dihidupkan kembali oleh banyak pereka utama Eropah sebagai trend.[24] Dalam beberapa tahun kebelakangan ini, Dolce & Gabbana telah mula memamerkan koleksi peribadi mereka untuk pembeli, untuk menjual koleksi mereka sebelum mereka menjadi awam dan untuk mempercepat penyalinan rekaan mereka dengan syarikat fesyen cepat.[25]

Pada tahun 2005, perolehan mereka berjumlah €597 juta.[4] Pada tahun 2006, syarikat itu memulakan perjalanan baru dalam aksesori dan barangan kulit untuk lelaki dan wanita. Syarikat itu juga meneroka kosmetik, dengan Scarlett Johansson sebagai wajah kempen pengiklanan.

Pada tahun 2012, D & G digabungkan dengan Dolce & Gabbana untuk mengukuhkan garisan utama. Koleksi D & G lepas akhir adalah koleksi Musim Bunga / Panas 2012 yang ditunjukkan pada bulan September 2011.[26] The New Yorker diterbitkan pada tahun 2005 bahawa, "Dolce dan Gabbana menjadi dua belas tahun Prada kepada sembilan belas sembilan puluhan dan Armani adalah untuk sembilan belas tahun lapan puluhan—gli stilisti yang sensitifnya menentukan dekad."[7] Sebagai penghargaan peribadi, pada tahun 1996 dan tahun 1997 Dolce & Gabbana dinamakan oleh FHM sebagai pereka tahun ini. Pada tahun 2003 GQ Magazine bernama Dolce & Gabbana di kalangan mereka "Men of the Year" (Lelaki Tahun Ini). Pembaca tahun berikut British Elle mengutip Dolce & Gabbana sebagai pereka antarabangsa terbaik pada 2004 Elle Style Awards.[27] Dolce & Gabbana merayakan ulang tahun ke-20 jenama mereka pada 19 Jun 2010 di Piazza della la Scala dan Palazzo Marino di Milan. Sebuah pameran awam juga diadakan pada hari berikutnya yang termasuk sebuah bilik di mana beberapa belas televisyen ditumpuk secara tidak sengaja di antara satu sama lain, masing-masing menunjukkan koleksi yang berbeza dari sejarah dua puluh tahun reka bentuk rumah itu.[28]

Jenama

A pair of Dolce & Gabbana's Golden Sneakers.

Dolce & Gabbana mempunyai dua garisan tengah (D & G dan Dolce & Gabbana) hingga 2012, apabila garisan itu bergabung di bawah label Dolce & Gabbana.

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana (dieja tanpa ruang, tidak seperti nama saya) mengkhususkan diri dalam barangan mewah yang diilhami oleh reka bentuk yang tinggi dan lebih formal dan 'abadi', menanggapi trend jangka panjang serta perubahan bermusim.[29] Ia juga menjual cermin mata hitam dan eyewear pembetulan, dompet, dan jam tangan. Pada bulan April 2009, ia melancarkan pelbagai bentuknya, yang dilancarkan di Selfridges, London oleh Scarlett Johansson.[30] Pada bulan Februari 2010, ia diumumkan bahawa penyanyi Amerika Madonna akan merekabentuk koleksi cermin mata hitam berjudul MDG , yang akan dikeluarkan pada bulan Mei tahun itu. Ia juga menawarkan wangian untuk lelaki dan wanita. Contohnya ialah 'The One' yang merupakan minyak wangi oleh Dolce & Gabbana.

D & G

D & G adalah jenama garis penyebaran yang lebih muda dan lebih flamboyan. Tidak seperti Dolce & Gabbana, D & G menjual jam tangan dan pakaian: jam tangan dihasilkan oleh Naloni dan Kumpulan Binda. Pada tahun 2011, Dolce & Gabbana memutuskan untuk menghentikan D & G-line untuk meletakkan "lebih banyak kekuatan dan tenaga" ke koleksi mereka yang lain.[31]

Talian lain

Dolce & Gabbana mencipta koleksi pengantin, tetapi hanya antara tahun 1992 dan 1998. Koleksi Rumah Dolce & Gabbana yang dimulakan pada tahun 1994-juga dihentikan pada tahun 1999, kecuali potongan unik dicipta untuk premis D & G. Koleksi pakaian renang wanita pertama telah dibangunkan pada tahun 1989, diikuti oleh koleksi pakaian renang lelaki pertama pada tahun 1992. D & G melancarkan garis kacamata pada tahun 1998 dan garis timepieces pada tahun 2000. Pada tahun yang sama, D & G melancarkan koleksi seluar lelaki dan wanita, berasingan dari mereka Koleksi pakaian Dolce & Gabbana. Pada tahun 2001 mereka melancarkan talian D & G Junior untuk kanak-kanak. Pada tahun 2006, kedua-duanya melancarkan talian aksesori cetak harimau Anamalier untuk wanita, dan pada tahun 2007 mereka melancarkan garis perjalanan buaya untuk lelaki. Beg lain yang dihasilkan oleh rumah termasuk beg tote Miss Sicily,[32] and the "Dolce" bag, offered in straw and leather.[33]

Pada tahun 2009 mereka melancarkan garis kosmetik warna pertama mereka,[34] with Scarlett Johansson as the face of the advertising campaign.[35] Dolce & Gabbana launched its first line of fine jewellery in late 2011 with an 80-piece line including bejewelled rosaries, charm bracelets, and necklaces.[36] Mereka kemudian melancarkan koleksi barang kemas untuk lelaki.[37] Dolce & Gabbana telah menerima beberapa anugerah untuk wangian mereka, seperti yang diterangkan dalam bahagian di atas. Wewangian mereka sekarang termasuk: "The One", "Sport", "Light Blue", "Dolce", "Classic", "Sicily", "The One Rose", dan aroma asli "Pour Homme" dan "Parfum".[38] Pada 16 Oktober 2014, syarikat itu mengumumkan bahawa Colin Farrell akan menjadi wajah aroma baru mereka yang dikenali sebagai "Intenso."[39]

Internet

Dolce & Gabbana membuat logo "DG" simbol ikonik dan dikenali dengan serta-merta,[40] tetapi mereka tidak pernah mendapat alamat internet yang sepadan dengan DG.com. Malah, DG.com adalah salah satu domain Internet tertua dan sudah didaftarkan pada tahun 1986 oleh syarikat komputer Data General, kini tidak berfungsi lagi. Selepas syarikat itu ditutup pada tahun 1999, urus niaga itu pergi ke EMC sebelum Dollar General membelinya pada tahun 2010 selepas perang bidaan dengan Dolce & Gabbana.[41]

Partnerships

Sports

Dolce & Gabbana has designed the on-field attire for A.C. Milan since 2004.[42] In addition to having their on-field uniforms designed by Dolce & Gabbana, A.C. Milan players also dress in team-issued Dolce & Gabbana attire when at official functions off the field.[43] The duo also designed the off-field suits for the Italy national football team.[44] In 2010, Dolce & Gabbana signed a three-year deal with the Chelsea F.C. to design and provide the club's on- and off-field uniforms and attire. The deal included the creation of clothing for female staff members in addition to male staff members and the players themselves. The off-field outfits designed for the club included a dark blue suit featuring the lion symbol on the breast pocket. The designers also re-designed the club's director's lounge and main office reception area.[45] Dolce & Gabbana were also the named sponsors of the Milano Thunder Italian Boxing Team.[46]

Products

In 2006, Dolce & Gabbana partnered with Motorola to produce the Motorola V3i Dolce & Gabbana cellular phone.[47] In 2009, Dolce & Gabbana partnered with Sony Ericsson to produce a version of its Jalou cellular phone line with 24-karat gold details and the logo of the design house emblazoned on the co-designed piece of technology.[48] Dolce & Gabbana also partnered with Citroën to co-design a version of their C3 Pluriel vehicle.[49] In 2010 Dolce & Gabbana partnered with Martini to produce a "gold edition" of its vermouth.[50] In 2010 the design house then teamed with singer Madonna to release a co-designed line of sunglasses called MDG.[51]

Advertising campaigns

The commercial for the first women fragrance of Dolce & Gabbana ran for several years in Italy, created by filmmaker Giuseppe Tornatore, scored by Ennio Morricone, and starred actress Monica Bellucci. The 30-second commercial begins with a man slapping an octopus against the stone ridges of a tide pool. He stands and looks around his surroundings at different women going about their daily lives. One woman (Bellucci) is seen changing into a 1950s-style bathing suit behind a white sheet being held up by two other women. After she changes, she tosses her bra atop a prickly pear cactus and walks towards the ocean. Later she is seen lying atop a well-made bed, and the man who saw her is standing outside her window, holding her bra up to his nose. The film closes with the image of the Dolce & Gabbana fragrance bottles against a black backdrop.[52] In 2003, the Dolce & Gabbana perfume Sicily was advertised in another commercial about a Sicilian funeral, which was also directed by Giuseppe Tornatore.[53]

Gisele Bündchen starred in the 2006 commercial for the fragrance "The One", featuring Bundchen in front of a vanity mirror being made up, with flashes of a mob of cameramen interspersed; she then puts on a golden dress, shoes, and a pair of D&G sunglasses.[54] Photographers and filmmakers that have worked with Dolce & Gabbana on advertising campaigns have included Giampaolo Barbieri,[55] Michel Comte,[56] Fabrizio Ferri,[57] Steven Klein,[58][59] Steven Meisel,[60] Mert + Marcus,[61] Jean Baptiste Mondino,[35] Ferdinando Scianna,[62] Giampaolo Sgura,[63] Mario Sorrenti,[64] Sølve Sundsbø,[65] Mario Testino,[66] Giuseppe Tornatore, and Mariano Vivanco.[67] Dolce & Gabbana have won two Leadawards for their campaigns from Germany's leading advertising awards. In 2004 they won for their Fall/Winter 2003/04 campaign[68] and in 2006 they won for their Fall/Winter 2005/06 campaign.[69]

Inspirations and style

The Dolce & Gabbana store of Via della Spiga in Milan

Originally inspired by eclectic, thrift shop bohemian style, Dolce & Gabbana's deeply colored, animal prints have been described as "haute hippy dom" taking inspiration in particular from Italy's prestigious film history. "When we design it's like a movie (Domenico)," says Domenico Dolce. "We think of a story and we design the clothes to go with it (Domenico)." They claim to be more concerned about creating the best, most flattering clothes than sparking trends, once admitting that they wouldn't mind if their only contribution to fashion history was a black bra (Dolce & Gabbana 2007). Sicily and Sicilian culture is the most important style and identity of Dolce & Gabbana.

D & G trademarks include underwear-as-outerwear (such as corsets and bra fastenings), gangster boss pinstripe suits, and extravagantly printed coats. Meanwhile, their feminine collections are always backed by powerful ad campaigns, like the black-and-white ads featuring model Marpessa photographed by Ferdinando Scianna in 1987 (Dolce & Gabbana). "They find their way out of any black dress, any buttoned-up blouse (Domenico)," says Rossellini. "The first piece of theirs I wore was a white shirt, very chaste, but cut to make my breasts look as if they were bursting out of it (Domenico)."

Once dubbed the "Gilbert and George of Italian fashion",[70] Dolce & Gabbana gave their fashion interests a musical turn in 1996, by recording their own single, in which they intoned the words "D&G is love" over a techno beat (Dolce & Gabbana 2011). Newer to the design game than other heavyweight Italian fashion houses such as Armani and Versace, the pair acknowledge that luck has played its part in their phenomenal success. By 1997, their company reported a turnover of €400 million, prompting both designers to announce that they planned to retire by the age of 40 – a promise they did not keep (Domenico).

After the designers spotted a Veneziano painting of Christ on the cross wearing a pair of their branded underwear briefs in the Venice Biennale, they commissioned the artist to do a portrait of them with the Madonna portrayed as the likeness of the chanteuse and performer Madonna Ciccone and the courtiers as two putti at her feet.[71][72]

In January 2016, the company launched a high-end fashion range aimed at wealthy Muslim women featuring a collection of hijabs and abayas printed with daisies, lemons and roses.[73]

Books

In addition to designing clothing, Dolce & Gabbana have co-authored nearly two dozen books featuring photographic narratives as well as collections of their own work. The proceeds of many of these books go to charities including the Children’s Action Network and the Butterfly Onlus "école sans frontières" Foundation.[34] The following is a bibliography of their literary works:

  • 10 Anni Dolce & Gabbana (A collection of the most important advertising and editorial images of the design house's first decade)[74]
  • Wildness[75]
  • Animal[76]
  • Hollywood (Features over 100 photographs of the movie stars from the post-1985 era)[77]
  • Calcio (Photographs of 44 soccer players, 3 teams, and 2 coaches)[78]
  • A.C. Milan[79]
  • Music (Features over 150 of globally recognised musicians)[80]
  • 20 Years Dolce & Gabbana (A chronological photographic history of each of the house's collections, using over 1000 photos)[34]
  • Milan[81]
  • 2006 Italia (A book celebrating the 2006 World Cup title won by Italy)[82]
  • Fashion Album (Contains over 400 images paying homage to the great fashion photographers of Dolce & Gabbana collections)[83]
  • Secret Ceremony[84]
  • Family (A book that focuses on the family as the center of a man's life)[34]
  • The Good Shepherd (A book that illustrates the day of a common shephard, wearing Dolce & Gabbana clothing)[85]
  • Milano Beach Soccer[34]
  • Diamonds & Pearls[86]
  • 20 Years of Dolce & Gabbana for Men[87]
  • Icons 1990–2010[88]
  • Fashion Shows 1990 – 2010[89]
  • Nazionale Italiana: South Africa 2010 (A series of images starring the Italian National Football Team during the training sessions preceding the 2010 FIFA World Cup)[90]
  • Uomini[91][92]
  • Milan Fashion Soccer Players Portraits[93]
  • David Gandy (A 280-page photographic coffee table book of images chronicling collaborations with British model David Gandy from 2006 to 2011)[94]
  • Campioni[95]

Spaces and exhibitions

Dolce & Gabbana opened the La sede di via San Damiano atelier in September 1995. They opened a combined seven-floor boutique and corporate space Lo showroom di via Goldoni in 2002, moving from its prior main showroom at Piazza Umanitaria. In July 2006 Dolce & Gabbana then opened a 5,000 square foot show floor Lo showroom di via Broggi in Milan. The design house also bought the Il Metropol theatre in Milan, a historic cinema built in the 1940s. It was renovated and reopened in September 2005.[34] In 2006 Dolce & Gabbana opened IL GOLD, an establishment with café, bar, bistro, and restaurant areas. This is followed by the opening of a co-sponsored drinking establishment the duo founded at their Milanese men's showroom called the Martini Bar in 2003.[15] An additional Martini Bar was later opened at their Shanghai showroom in 2006.[34] In 2009 Dolce & Gabbana had 93 boutiques and 11 factory outlets, and was sold in over 80 countries.[96] In all they have 251 mono-brand stores.[97]

In the United States standalone boutiques can be found in Bal Harbour, Beverly Hills, Chicago, Houston, Las Vegas, and New York City. Dolce & Gabbana also operates boutiques in other cities in select department stores: Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman.

In addition to developing runway shows and advertising campaigns for its collections, Dolce & Gabbana use their spaces to host photography and other art exhibitions. Soon after the opening of the Il Metropol, they hosted two exhibitions by artist Ron Arad in the lobby space: Blo-Glo between April 2006 and April 2007,[98] and Bodyguards in late April 2007.[99] They held photography exhibitions featuring the work of Enzo Sellerio in 2007[100] and Herbert List in 2008.[101] In 2011 Dolce & Gabbana held an open house and architectural exhibition with Studio Piuarch showcasing the studio's various architectural designs and projects since 1996.[102] Studio Piuarch built the Dolce & Gabbana headquarters in 2006, which was where the exhibition and open house was held.[103]

Dolce & Gabbana also uses its spaces for book launches and photographic exhibitions of its own clothing, such as the book launch of their book David Gandy in 2011.[104] They also use other spaces as well, such as the Palazzo della Ragione in Milan, where in May 2009 they staged a photographic exhibition of over 100 images selected from the history of US Vogue over its 90-year history. The exhibition was called Extreme Beauty in Vogue.[105][106]

The company has production factories in Legnano[107] and Incisa in Val d'Arno.[108]

Controversies

Advertising

Fail:1 dolce gabbana.jpg
2007 D&G advertising image subject to controversy.

Dolce & Gabbana was publicly criticised by Britain's advertising watchdog Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) in January 2007, for an advertising campaign showing models brandishing knives.

Following complaints from consumer groups in February 2007, Dolce & Gabbana pulled an advertisement in Spain that showed a man holding a woman to the ground by her wrists while a group of men look on. Spain's Labour and Social Affairs Ministry branded the campaign as illegal and humiliating to women, saying the woman's body position had no relation to the products Dolce & Gabbana was trying to sell.[109] Italian publications followed suit, banning the ad. This advertisement was called "a glorification of gang rape" and declared "one of the most controversial advertisements in fashion history" by Debonair Magazine.[110] When asked about the ad being banned in Spain, Dolce & Gabbana responded that the "Spaniards were a bit backward." [111] According to the Daily Mail, Dolce & Gabbana's ad was said to "offend the dignity of the woman." [111]

This particular ad was brought up again seven years later by Kelly Cutrone, a well-known fashion publicist, when she mentioned it on her Twitter account. According to Nextshark.com, "she slammed Dolce & Gabbana, claiming the ad, which depicts a woman being pinned to the group by a half-naked man as three men look on, stimulates a 'gang bang'." [111] According to the Huffington Post UK, feminist writer Louise Pennington recently also commented on the image. She stated that, "This particular image is a representative of an increasingly misogynistic contraction of women in the fashion industry demonstrating very clear links between the fashion-beauty industry and the mainstreaming of pornography. Those who suggest this image is harmless fail to recognize the reality of rape culture and the dehumanization of women's bodies in our pornographic mainstream media." [112]


Hong Kong photo ban controversy

One of the four streets blocked during the Sunday protest.

On 5 January 2012, Apple Daily reported that only Hong Kong citizens had been prevented from taking pictures of Dolce & Gabbana window displays in both their Hong Kong stores, stirring anti-Mainland Chinese sentiment.[113] In particular staff and security personnel at their flagship store on Canton Road asserted the pavement area outside was private property where photography was forbidden. The actions sparked protests spanning several days and gained international news coverage on 8 January.[114][115][116][117] Citing the case of Zhou Jiugeng, a Nanjing official whose high-living lifestyle was identified by Chinese citizens using internet photographs, local news reports speculated that the Dolce & Gabbana photo ban may have been imposed at the request of some wealthy Chinese government officials attempting to block details on the source of their wealth.[118][119]

Dolce & Gabbana finally issued a formal apology to Hong Kong citizens from its Milan headquarters on 18 January 2012.[120][121]

Gay adoption and in vitro fertilisation

In an interview in 16 March 2015 issue of Italian magazine Panorama, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce caused controversy when they remarked, "We oppose gay adoptions. The only family is the traditional one." They also criticized in vitro fertilisation (IVF) and surrogacy by saying, "No chemical offspring and rented uterus: life has a natural flow, there are things that should not be changed."[122] Since the comments were made by two gay men in an industry often seen as gay-friendly, reactions were especially harsh.

Critics took to social media to voice their opposition, with the hashtag #BoycottDolceGabbana garnering 30,000 tweets on Twitter in five days. Celebrities, including Elton John, Madonna, Victoria Beckham, Ricky Martin, Martina Navratilova and Courtney Love, were among those expressing anger over the remarks. Love said she would "burn all of her Dolce and Gabbana clothing", while John, father of two children conceived through IVF, commented, "How dare you refer to my beautiful children as 'synthetic'. And shame on you for wagging your judgmental little fingers at IVF - a miracle that has allowed legions of loving people, both straight and gay, to fulfil their dream of having children."[123] In an Instagram post Madonna, who appeared in a 2010 Dolce & Gabbana campaign, said, "All babies contain a soul however they come to this earth and their families. There is nothing synthetic about a soul!! So how can we dismiss IVF and surrogacy? Every soul comes to us to teach us a lesson. God has his hand in everything even technology! We are arrogant to think Man does anything on his own. As above so below! Think before you speak."[124]

More than 10,000 people signed an online petition calling for Macy’s and Debenhams to stop stocking the brand in their department stores, until D&G retracted their statements and apologized. Protesters also gathered outside Dolce & Gabbana’s flagship London shop calling for an international boycott of the luxury fashion store.[125]

Dolce & Gabbana criticized calls for a boycott on their brand as "medieval" and called for fans to use the hashtag #BoycottEltonJohn, though it resulted in only 1,500 tweets.[126] Social conservative website LifeSiteNews launched a petition in support of Dolce & Gabbana that got more than 20,000 signatures.[127] After being asked during an interview with CNN if he supported having children through IVF, Dolce replied, "Yeah, I don't have anything bad, because the beauty of the world is freedom...We love gay couple. We are gay. We love gay couple. We love gay adoption. We love everything. It's just an express of my private point of view."[128][129]

Other

In their Spring/Summer 2013 collection they included earrings and fabric prints that to American audiences closely resembled imagery associated with the Mammy archetype with many media outlets commenting the likeness. The designs, however, were made in reference to Sicilian Moor's heads, popular good luck charms in Sicilian folklore. [130]

In the spring of 2016, the brand came under fire for a listing on their web store of a pair of sandals featuring colorful decorations and pom poms with the title of "Slave Sandal in Napa Leather". Other retailers listed them as the Bianca or the Pom Pom sandal. Sandals in Italy are often referred to as such in reference to Ancient Rome. When social media users called the name into question, the listing was changed.[131]

Legal issues

In May 2009, the Italian government charged Dolce & Gabbana with tax evasion for having moved assets of about 249 million euros to Luxembourg in the 2004–2006 period.[132][133]

On 19 June 2013, they were found guilty of failing to declare 1 billion euros ($1.3 billion) of income to authorities after moving their brand to Gado, a Luxembourg-based holding company. The court sentenced them both to one year and eight months in jail.[134] Dolce & Gabbana were quick to file a 90-page appeal and thus did not face any jail time.

On 30 April 2014, a three judge panel overruled the appeal and decided to uphold the initial sentence.[135] However, since they were sentenced to only one year and six months, which is under the two-year minimum, both of them will not serve actual imprisonment in jail.[135][136]

On 24 October 2014, both Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana were found innocent of tax evasion by the Italian Court of Justice.[137] After the court's decision was announced, Stefano Gabbana tweeted in Italian, "We knew it!!! We are honest people!"[138][139]

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Further reading

  • "Dolce & Gabbana." The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers. London: Thames & Hudson, 2007. Credo Reference. Web. 29 November 2011.
  • "Gabbana, Stefano." Marquis Who's Who in the World. New Providence: Marquis Who's Who LLC, 2011. Credo Reference. Web. 29 November 2011.
  • "Gabbana, Stefano." The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers. London: Thames & Hudson, 2007. Credo Reference. Web. 29 November 2011.
  • "Domenico Dolce Quotes – Swide Magazine." Swide Magazine by Dolce&Gabbana. Swide Magazine, 2 June 2011. Web. 29 November 2011.
  • "Dolce & Gabbana – Biography on Bio." Bio: Shows, Video, TV Schedule and More on Bio. AETN UK. Web. 29 November 2011.

Pautan luar

Templat:Designer labels